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Pick of the Camera Reviews

(Click the pictures for reviews & links) 


Yi 2 - Best Budget 4K 

Gitup Git2 (My Pick)

Xiaomi Yi

Dazzne P2

DR02 D - Best Budget Dual Cam

Yi Ultra 2.7K
Mobius (also works as a Dashcam)
Polaroid Cube+
Sena Prism Tube

My favourite USB battery power Pack

This is the excellent USB power pack I use when I travel.

2 x 2.1amp outputs. 8400mAh capacity.

Two digit Led display shows battery level


What SD CARD should I buy?

If you want an SD Card for your camera - these are the ones I use and recommend. 

I'd strongly recommend not to buy any SD cards off ebay - I've heard about too many issues with counterfeit cards - often sold on by unwitting resellers. My inbox regularly gets messages from people who bought a £150 camera then cheaped out and bought a £3 memory card on ebay - Then when it doesn't worth they blame the camera! It doesn't make any sense. Good memory is cheaper than it's ever been - see the links above.

A lot of HD cameras will not work properly with cards larger than 32GB (cards over 32GB are usually SDXC rather than the SDHC standard used by 32GB cards. SDXC cards use the ex-FAT system rather than FAT32 - in short they are a different standard). - so don't just buy the biggest card you can afford - read the specs in the manual to see what it accepts.


RECOMMENDED CARDS (for action cams - see dashcams below)

CLASS 10 UHS-1 CARDS (For HD Cameras)


U3 CARD (For 4K cameras)




The SD card in a dashcam is re-written over, more frequently than in other types of cameras. Some manufacturers void their guarantee if an SD card was used in a dashcam. So, no surprise, there are special High Endurance SD cards made just for's some.


VERY IMPORTANT. These links take you to the product, however Amazon have three different ways of selling. There's Amazon Direct - This means that you are only dealing with Amazon themselves, then there's other sellers that use Amazon's facilities - these show as Fulfilled By Amazon and finally there's Market Place sellers that advertise on Amazon, but operate independently.  I strongly recommend that you only use the first...the Amazon Direct - Sold By Amazon option. Even if it appears that you are paying a couple of £/$ more it is more than likely you are comparing the price of a real item against the price of a fake.

To give you an idea of the extent of the fake goods problem. In a 2016 survey by Apple - 90% of the 'Apple' chargers sold through Amazon - using the other the two methods..which includes the "Fulfilled by Amazon" option -  were found to be counterfeit....90%! 


« A few short videos about things | Main | Two new videos, A Crystal Watch and an OBD-II Display »

A 'black box' for your car.

I know that there are a lot of people out there who are looking for a 'fit and forget' car camera. One that will continuously and unobtrusively record every journey - with no need for any manual intervention. A camera that you would only touch if you got into an accident and you needed to pull the evidence off it. The automotive equivalent of a aircraft black box recorder. 

Well, if you can find a way to hide this camera away in your car then this might be the one for you. The video explains pretty much everything (hopefully) that you will need to know.

Even the Muppets that I picked up a couple of years ago get let out of their display cases to help me explain something. 

If you are thinking of taking the camera apart - I've put a picture below that shows what it looks like without the Suction cup mount and what happens if you try and unscrew and remove the protruding bracket (it contains the wiring to the GPS aerial socket - so you would need to disconnect/snip these wires to be able to remove this section - not beyond the realms of possibility, but also not something that I want to do).

I have also put a couple of untouched 1080p sample clips in a dropbox folder - a 2 min 130MB clip, and a shorter 30 second 30MB clip. Right click and save either of these if you want to test them. 



UPDATE - People email me regularly to tell me that this camera is no longer available from Chinavasion. 

A quick search shows that it is still available on ebay though.. 


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Reader Comments (241)

@ erkme73

Hi and thanks for your answer. Please let me know what you find out. I am fairly new in this so I apologize for my ignorance. The GPS is useful in these kind of cameras just to know the location and at what speed you are driving correct? (i.e. an officer stopping you and saying you were going faster, etc.). What other uses do you get form having a GPS in the camera? I am considering the V1000G but I haven't done anything yet. In your experience have you found that the lack of screen makes it harder to get the footage you want? In other words how many times did you try placing the camera on the dashboard until you were satisfied with the footage you were getting? I guess I always like the idea of having a screen in my cameras to know exactly what I am recording. If I go with the V1000G it would be the first one that I buy without one so I am still a bit skeptical.

January 4, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterAlan

@Techmoan. Are you sure that's a U.FL connector? I would have put money on it being MCX. U.FL is not really robust enough for use as an external connector.

I thought I would be able to find a MCX to SMA adaptor, and a small rubber ducky antenna, but it appears these aren't made for GPS frequencies, and GPS antennas are normally active antennas. Garmin has some antennas for their handheld units with BNC connectors, but I have been unable to find specifications to determine if they may be suitable.

January 6, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

@Sir Hunphrey. Now that you ask, I'm not sure, no. Perhaps I should have kept quiet. Your idea sounds like a good one in theory, I hope you can get it to work out

January 6, 2012 | Registered CommenterTechmoan

Thanks Mike. Your reply regarding no Google map was because PC was not connected to the internet as you suggested.

January 6, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterKeefy

Hi,I bought one just before xmas,works quite well.however my camera seems to lock up on a regular basis, light stays on when locked.I have tried a few different micro sd cards (unbranded and branded) but get the same result.
has anyone had the same problem? what card would be recommended.
Hope someone may help.

January 6, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLOCHINVAR


Try lowering the video resoloution & see what happens, my money is on the memory card.

January 6, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMike

@ MIKE,thanks for your advice will do.what make of card and capacity do you use please

January 7, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLOCHINVAR

@ MIKE,thanks for your advice will do.what make of card and capacity do you use please

January 7, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLOCHINVAR

I think I've found a solution... FGPS35216-SM-RA GPS-Stubby Antenna with SMA-Male right angle connector

This is a stubby active GPS antenna, with 26dB gain, which appears to be comparable to all the mouse antennas I have found. Requires 3V. Still waiting for my camera. Does anyone have a multimeter and a V1000GS and can see what voltage is supplied to the antenna port?

January 8, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby


Memory card is PNY 8gb from PC World.

Some suggest class 6 should work fine though.

Beware a lot of fake cards about, thats why I paid top price from PCW !

January 8, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMike


Here you go , found it.

Price £10 cheaper than when I bought mine AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR !

January 8, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMike

While I'm at it, here's a vid from yesterday.

January 8, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMike

@mike,thanks for the info.I will buy a new card as per yours tomorrow from pcw and give that a go.

January 8, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLOCHINVAR


Also check "Event Recording" is off or XYZ settings are'nt set too keen. If too sensitive this would fill your memory card quickly.

January 9, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMike

Camera finally arrived. Tomorrow I shall test it out on the road.

Biggest issue is the mount... it is absolutely useless. It wouldn't stay on the window for more than thirty seconds even without the camera attached, but the application of a small amount of white petroleum jelly, has kept it on there, with camera, for a few hours now. Fingers crossed it will stay attached.

I've decided the antenna cable was easy enough to hide in the roof lining, and behind the rubber on the car frame, so I won't be searching for another antenna for now... I figure having the antenna cable wrapped around the rear view mirror provides extra insurance if the suction cup doesn't stick (which I'm sure it won't - my Garmin GPS comes off all the time).

The remote control is also pretty bad. Doesn't seem to work reliably with the CF lighting in our house. That's not too surprising, I have a media PC IR remote thingamajig, and the 'receive' light is constantly on when the lights are on... still works though, unlike the V1000GS remote.

January 10, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

Folks, I have a bit of bad news. As I previously posted, I purchased two of the V1000GS - one for my wife's car, and one for mine. I installed both the same way. Both cars have double-din stereo units with video input monitors - so the output of the cameras can be viewed real-time while driving. I installed brand new 32GB class 4 Sandisk microSD cards (purchased from Newegg, so I'm certain they'er legitimate).

Right away, my wife's camera didn't work as it should. Maybe 4/5 times, only the red LED would come on - solid - and "no video signal" on the monitor. Only pressing reset, and removing power would unlock it - and then, that would have to be done several times to eventually get it to start flashing.

I swapped the microSD cards from hers to mine, and the problem stayed with her camera. So I put her card back into her camera and contacted the seller (Saddle, Inc in China - they're listed in Aliexpress). Wesley Chow - the seller - said he'd not heard of this before, and asked that I ship the camera back to him so they can update the software and analyze the device. I have not yet done that.

In the meantime, I though perhaps formatting my wife's microSD card on the PC might help to reset the data writing. As soon as I tried, the format process on Win 7 failed. No descript error, but it simply wouldn't format. So I tried to delete the files. They appeared to be gone until I refreshed the file explorer. So, I chalked it up as a bad card. Luckily I had bought several more microSD cards. When I replaced the card in her camera, the initial lock-up symptoms DID NOT go away.

Last night, I noticed that the blue and red LEDs on MY camera were on solid. I turned on the monitor to find the spinning circle. There was live video coming from the camera, but it was not recording. I used the remote to get to the menu screen, at which point it completely locked up. Upon reset the same thing happened again. At some point I was able to switch to the 'play' mode, and the monitor displayed a blue screen with "FILE ERROR" on it. When I got home, I put the microSD into my PC. While the computer 'dinged' like it normally should, no drive showed up in the file explorer. I went to the system administration/drive management console, where I could see the installed microSD. It showed "healthy" but no drive letter. I assigned a drive letter to it, and windows then saw the content of the card. There were about 6 video files. Several were playable, but most were corrupt. I tried to format the card - same "cannot complete the format" error as I experienced on my wife's card.

Let me also say that on past occasions, I'd removed this same card from my camera, and played it on my PC without incident. I noticed that each time there were several directories - DCIM, MISC, HDPLAYER, GPSLOG. However, since the cards became corrupted, the HDPLAYER directory was missing on both cars.

At this point I've lost all confidence in the cameras. Not only is it hit/miss whether it will work out of the box, there a good chance it will eventually fry your SD card. I've sent these concerns to the seller, but have little confidence there will be a workable solution that doesn't involve additional trial/error, shipping things from the US to China, and more damaged cards.

As of right now, I've put older 8GB microSD cards in both cameras. My wife's still does not work 4/5 times. Mine is working again - for now.

Has anyone seen such lockups?

January 10, 2012 | Unregistered Commentererkme73

@erkme73.everything you have posted is a mirror image of the problems I have had,and I was beginning to think I was the only person to have these probs.
So far mike made a few guesses all resulting in the same end results,sometimes the camera will work for two/three days running then lock up twice in one day alone,I too have lost all confidence in the camera as I now spend most of my car journey checking to see if the camera is actually working,this is not how it should be,in fact having the camera is only giving you a false sense of security.

Here are a few observations I have made, the remote control is more responsive pointing to the rear of the camera not the front.If I power the camera in house through the mains/usb lead and record, it has never locked up????

I have been in touch with my supplier ( NIXIMTECH) and they asked me to send pics of the camera in the locked state,and pics of the files on the card,I have done this yesterday,now waiting for a response.

As I have tried quite a few good quality cards I am at a loss now.
I hope we can sort it out as I actually like the camera otherwise.

Hope someone can help.

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterLOCHINVAR


Agreed. I'm particularly disappointed that it's effectively damaging cards. It's one thing to not work as advertised - but yet entirely different if it's destroying expensive equipment in the process. I'm now reluctant to do any further testing for fear of depleting my microSD card inventory.

Your comment about powering through the USB is interesting. Can you confirm that when powered through the USB/AV port, the camera will power up from the off state, and immediately resume recording (as it does with the 12V input)? I'd try, but my only cables with USB are firmly installed in the A-pillar of both vehicles (needed them to drive the monitors).

If it turns out that powering from 5V has the same capabilities as 12V, then a simple 12 to USB (5V) adapter installed elsewhere in the vehicle could be used to drive the camera. In theory, that would be safer. I was apprehensive from the start, about applying "12V" to the camera - as car voltages fluctuate wildly - especially when cranking the engine. You may be on to something. Let me know what you find out, and then I'll know if I have to start tearing my cars apart again. :)

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered Commentererkme73

Powering by 5v puts the camera in to recording mode.

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

Great. So then there is no operational difference between the 12V and USB-powered inputs. Can anyone confirm a lockup that occurred while powering with USB?

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered Commentererkme73

The USB connector on the camera looks to be an 8-pin micro-USB. A normal micro-USB connector has five pins, and presumably two of the additional pins are used for video and audio.

What I want to know is, can a standard 5-pin micro-USB cable be used for power and data, or are they not physically compatible with the 8-pin connectors?

If not compatible, does anyone know if the 8-pin variant has common power/data lines, or if they are entirely proprietary. There are lots of 8-pin cables available, but I can't find any details on standards other than the normal 5-pin variant.

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

@ Sir Humprey Appleby.

Know what you mean about window sucker thingies. I have never had one what stays on the window for long, sat navs etc.

How I overcame this problem after trying everything to make them stick was to stick some Velcro strips on the windscreen at the top on the black part of the glass. Then put Velcro strips on the sucker, result ! works perfectly now & easy to remove when I don't want to leave the camera in the car.

Wilco's sell Velcro pads called "Hook & Loop Discs" they are 20mm Velcro discs & will work fine, not expensive.

I never have to worry about the camera falling off the windscreen anymore !

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMike

It looks like the 8 pin variant is smaller than the 5 pin micro-USB connector, so the standard micro-USB cable cannot be used. I'm a bit hesitant to try out a random 8 pin connector off the Internet. It is likely this will be okay for operating the camera, as (other?) USB ports are designed for power to be connected before the data pins, but it's questionable if the cable could be used for data transfer. I've seen some reports of incompatibility when mixing cables from different products. Note also that USB chargers are meant to short the D- and D+ pins (this is the 'correct' way to determine if the cable is connected to a charger or computer), which could cause problems if the wiring is non-standard on the connectors. It may be some chargers work and others don't.

I might contact the seller and see if I can buy replacement cables. Not idea, because the cable is too thick, and not long enough for my intended use, but at least it's guaranteed to work.

January 11, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

I'm sorry to hear that people are having problems. I tend to test gadgets out for a few weeks and then put them back in the box, so never experience how reliable they are over longer periods. That's where these comments come in and the information everyone is compiling will hopefully help others. A youtube review is pretty much frozen in time when it's finished, and no one ever reads the youtube comments or video description, so I'm glad that extra information can be posted here for all to see. You can rest assured that I won't delete any comments (other than offensive ones).

January 11, 2012 | Registered CommenterTechmoan

No regrets, Techmoan... This is probably the 6th distinctly different mobile DVR unit I've purchased. Each time I think I found the perfect fit, I either find a defect/deficiency, or something better comes along. Thus, my windshield (front and back) are peppered with cameras :) One would probably conclude some form of obsessive compulsive disorder if they were to look at my vehicle.

I'm quite excited about the prospect of no lockups when powered by the USB cable. I will make the change on my wife's car this afternoon. So by the end of the day tomorrow, I should know with reasonable certainty, whether this is a fix. As Sir Humphrey already pointed out, however, this would require user install the only provided A/V/USB cable in the car - thereby coming up short if they intend on watching video on a TV or Computer at home.

FWIW, I've sent an email to my seller, directing him to this comment page, so he can verify that, despite his claim to the contrary, I'm not the only one experiencing this. I've also asked how or where I can obtain additional cables. His steadfast (and only) response has been for me to return the cameras to China. That's certainly better than no offer for help at all, but given the likely systemic issue, I think it would be a waste time, effort, and resources.

I'll keep everyone up-to-date here as I muddle through the issue.

January 12, 2012 | Unregistered Commentererkme73

My supplier is looking in to obtaining additional cables. I'm planning on getting two. One so I can completely disassemble it, removing the audio/video cables along the length of the cable, and one just in case things break as a result of doing that, in which case I will remove only the RCA connectors on the second cable.

If all goes to plan, we should be left with a slim cable that has only the USB connector and a small-ish plastic component at the USB-A end of the cable. Where I am planning on putting this, I have room to join this to a USB extension cable, and run it down the A pillar of the vehicle to a power source. This will also allow for easy connection for data exchange, without having to touch the camera itself.

One word of warning - be careful with car USB chargers. I planned to combine my Garmin and camera power source in to a single dual USB lighter socket. Turns out I need a special cable for the Garmin to get it out of USB mode (this also increases the current draw to 1A), but even without this, a '1000mA' charger I was using to test with, connected to the Garmin alone, began to smell very bad yesterday. Lucky I caught it before any magic smoke was released. The dual charger I have ordered has components rated to 3A, so hopefully that will not have the same result.

January 12, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

Ok - here's the latest...

Damaged SD cards:
I tried several more methods to format the two 32GB SanDisk cards, all of which failed. One of the cards has viewable files that I cannot modify or delete. I contacted SanDisk, who, after several rounds of diagnostic questions, concluded that the cards were defective and recommended that I return them to Newegg. RMA process already started with them.

Wife's V1000GS:
Even when powering through the USB only, the red light stays on solid, and there is no video output. I removed the 8GB card, inserted it into my PC, and performed a format... I just knew that card was now toast too. But, surprisingly, it actually formatted properly. After reinserting the card and powering the DVR, it came up as it should. I power-cycled the vehicle at least a dozen times - including cranking the engine. Each time, it worked as it should. As a point of reference, with the 12V power, 4/5 attempts ended in a lockup. Towards the end, my wife simply gave up trying to get it to work as it should.

Supplier update:
The supplier has responded, indicating that he's visited this site, and is discussing with "his" engineers. Again, he requested that I send the cameras back to him. I informed him of my intentions to test the USB power pathway, and until we know whether it works consistently and reliably, I did not want to send them back.

I'll know for sure within the next few days... Big thanks to Lochinvar for suggesting that the USB approach as a workaround - and to Sir Humphrey for confirming the USB-power auto record function.

January 13, 2012 | Unregistered Commentererkme73

Hi all
Great to read up on all these new cameras
Hopefully it can be decided on a 'winner' model and also allow the suppliers to develop what the user wants/needs

I'm also posting to subscribe to the latest comments

Unsure if anyone here is also in Aust but theres some more good discussion on car cameras here -



January 14, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterMitH

Well, looks like I have a shipment to China in my near future... :(

The wife's camera is now consistently solid red LED, no signal - despite powering exclusively through the USB port.

I'm going to swap hers with mine once more to confirm that the problem moves with the camera. I'd hate to think there's some RF or other interference in her car that's causing the camera to go haywire. FWIW, we both have the same Escort 9500i GPS-based radar detectors, and hers is constantly toggling between "No GPS signal" and "GPS signal acquired". When I swapped detectors, the problem continued in her car only. There may be something in the electrical system of her car... Then again, my V1000GS also fried a 32GB microSD, so... Her car is a Toyota Rav4.

January 14, 2012 | Unregistered Commentererkme73


Bugger. I was hoping the USB power would solve all the problems. I'm still planning to go down that route, mostly so I can tidy up the cabling, and reduce the risk of fried cards. I've already ordered an expensive cable to make my Garmin work with a normal charger, and the charger itself, so I might as well go through with my plans :)

If there is a power-related issue still, I am wondering if the 12V supply could be regulated down to a lower voltage (At least 7V, because I would expect there is a 5V regulator inside the camera), and tidied up using a couple of large capacitors.

I am also wondering if there might be a battery issue. The camera needs power so shut down, obviously if it has a battery, it must be charged in order to be able to do that. I question this because the only file my camera corrupted was at the end of a journey the first day I took the camera out, and the rest have all been fine.

January 14, 2012 | Unregistered CommenterSir Humphrey Appleby

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